A castle in the Carpathian mountains with a turbulent history has been restored by the original family owners. In past centuries, people from all over the Austro-Hungarian empire, of which the region of Covasna, surrounding Zabola village and castle were once part, came here to heal. The area, above a dormant volcano last eruption: 20, years agohas bubbly mineral springs below the surface but was never as famous as the spas of Bad Gastein in Austria or Karlovy Vary in the Czech Republic, and hence is still affordable. Snow tops the peaks around us, visible as I amble up the hill behind the estate to the Finnish sauna in the woods. I watch the sun dip beyond the distant pines as P Nk Valley View Casino Center May 28 steam. Every so often my reverie is broken as I brave the icy plunge pool outside. He started building wooden huts next to the mineral springs for bathers to change and warm up in. Then war broke out, followed by the communist takeover of Romania. The bathing infrastructure was destroyed and life in this quiet valley became as turbulent as the bubbling earth beneath it. The aristocratic Mikes family were kicked off their land in by the communists, who used the castle as a hospital for 40 years. One daughter, Katalin Mikes, escaped abroad. They restored it as a hotel with 32 rooms, including 11 new additions this year of self-contained cottages on the estate. As well as the sauna in the woods, Zabola has a spa in the castle grounds with a classic sauna and hot tub, and treatments ranging from hot stones to full body massages. Beyond the spa, though, there is much to explore. Keen to stimulate the local economy, the family teamed up with guides who offer activities from hiking to hot-spring hunting in the surrounding forests. Apparently, the water, with its high iron and magnesium content, is an excellent hangover cure, reduces inflammation and is great for muscles. After hiking through pretty woods for an hour, we find a spring and test the water. It tastes foul: fizzy and eggy with notes of bicarbonate of soda. Too much intense mineral content can cause stomach upset. Down the hill in Covasna village, Zoltán shows me another local healing method unique to this region: a mofetta basin. Standing in a mofetta helps dilate blood vessels to let blood flow better. I try standing in the wooden basin at the cardiology centre for 10 minutes, and am pleasantly surprised by the warming, energising effect through my body. Rejuvenated, I head back to the castle for dinner. A grand fireplace casts warmth across wooden beams, silver candlesticks are arrayed on tables, curtains sway by glass doors opening on to the terrace and soft music plays. I dine among guests and a few families who have driven here for the evening. The menu is Transylvanian and Indian, cooked from produce grown in the castle gardens. Then, inthey set about transforming the building, in disrepair after years of neglect, into a cosy hotel. With the old family fortunes lost, they hand-decorated, hammered, sawed and nailed the place into shape P Nk Valley View Casino Center May 28 10 years with the help of the village. After dinner I spend a long time roaming the creaking staircases and corridors, finding personal touches on every surface, like the ornate wooden chests fished from local flea markets and lovingly repainted. The family recently began offering other activities beyond the hotel and spa, all of which complement a wellness retreat. When I visited in winter last year, there were horse-drawn sledge tours and ice skating on the lake. This time the snow had melted by the time I arrived, but in midwinter guests can usually skate for hours on the lake, then warm up in the sauna. Trekking the wintry estate on horseback proves the perfect pastime instead. From the top, the valley stretches below us, the distant mountains purple fuzz in the ever-present Transylvanian mist. The Carpathian mountains have the largest population of brown bears in Europe — as well as the wolves and lynxes that roam these forests — and Péter has been tracking them for years.
A spa is reborn in Transylvania: a ‘healing hotel’ amid Romania’s forests and mountains
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